New Posting : 10 January 2010


5th November;  A change of plan we decide to take in La Palma  before heading south. We  head northabout out from Gomera on the advice of a wise Spanish skipper, he said the first few hours would be rough and upwind but we should get a fine reach across. As we turn out west through the channel separating Tenerife from La Gomera the wind goes to 30knots in the acceleration zone and we fly – winds drops to a more pleasant 15knots after two hours. Arrive to the very deserted marina at La Palma we were soon to figure out why! We scuttle up the town and are most impressed it might indeed be the finest town in the Canaries.

11th November ; Busy about the boat dropping headsails and greasing roller gear, fit new lines to reef three, snorkelling under boat cleaning hull and prop and a general check up, not too bad should just make it across to Barbados before anti fouling fully breaks down.  Top up water tanks, heavy rationing of water now comes into force as this water has to last until the other side. Any water taken on in Cape Verde will be kept separate and not in the tanks as it has a reputation for going off !!. But things might well have changed.   While K goes last minute shopping the skipper decides to pay a visit to the Santa Maria, the main ship of Columbus,  the brochure says  it is a ‘true copy’ (it most certainly is not) the whole maritime museum is dedicated to the ‘virgin of the snows’. It could only be described as a travesty, and is a disgrace to the memory of the such voyage. 

After a drink and some tapas with John and Ann of ‘Moonlight’ we all  go to a concert - Spanish guitar and harp with two very amplified senors. The setting is a beautiful balconied courtyard open to the stars. The music is very gutsy and climaxes in ‘I did it my way’ in Spanish, we flee, Ann comments “ music to slash your wrists to”..

We spent a week rolling in the marina – a very swelly spot as the breakwater wall is apparently open at the base, the engineer who came up with that one should be tied to the perpetually bucking pontoons, but the charm of the marineiros made up – they avert their gaze when checking the boats and pretend not to see our resulting ragged warps.  This is one of the least touristy of the Canary Island and a lush green place with tons of walking to be done and interesting things to observe – most notably – the world’s largest volcanic crater, La Caldera de Taburiente. The island is described as wealthy with lots of shops and some really attractive cafes and restaurants and winding narrow streets with subdued street lights which gives an atmosphere of a Van Gogh painting, – great spot for boats to stock up on food for the Atlantic crossing. I would advise that boat chandlery should be taken on in Las Palmas,  practically non-existent in la Palma. In the marina we meet Judith, an Austrian woman on her 46’ Bavaria who sails alone with her doggie DOTI – Judith is planning to cross the Atlantic in late December having started sailing two and a half years ago!! bought her boat – had it fitted out to her needs. K had a tour and returned to Pylades with tales of walk-in wardrobes, utility rooms with washing machines.   It was our pleasure to meet Judith.

12th November;  We disconnect from the dock,  bid farewell to John, Ann and Judith and  set course  for Cape Verde 803 nautical miles to the south. In 1999 we first sailed to Cape Verde captivated by their name and position – having been told by the late Charles J Haughey to perhaps rethink our visit there as his belief was that they were a ‘god foresaken’ spot – I have no doubt his words were for our benefit and safety but we went anyway and were enchanted by them, also shocked and upset by the gaping poverty. By nightfall we passed the southern tip of the island of Hierro at one time believed to be the extreme end of the known world. During the night the wind dies and we revert to engine. For the next three days calm pervades and the trusty engine pushes us along at our most economical 5 knots. Time is passed  by me reading the new Dawkins work “The Greatest Show on Earth” a book directed at the 40% who have not yet grasped the principles of evolution. In this case he is preaching to the converted but it is a perfect complement to the “Origins Cruise”.  K continues with the French lessons, I hear her in the cockpit ... voulez-vous verifier la pression des pneus .....  sounds impressive. We are now picking up Herb loud and clear  on the SSB at 20.00 UTC on 12359 kHz. (Herb broadcasts weather information for the Atlantic from his base in Canada).  We installed this bit of kit primarily to download weather files as we cross the oceans (this is done by the addition of a Pactor Modem). The SSB(single sideband radio) we hope can add to our security, social connections and  general information by enabling us to keep in contact with other cruisers who operate ‘nets’ across all our intended routes – as one goes from place to place you pick up information on the various nets whether they are weather nets or just groups of yachts checking in with each other on a daily basis – you are always welcome to join in and in so doing get all the gossip relating to the places you intend visiting –costs, piracy, good sundowner bars, provisioning and lots more.  K got the  licence to operate the SSB and is OPS on board Pylades. At this point of the trip we are having problems with the aerial connections for transmission and are working on it.  

After dinner on the 13th we watch a magnificent sunset and clearly see the famed ‘green flash’. During the nights Orion the hunter slowly raises from his slumbers in the east and before dawn is standing afore us, more threateningly a perfect scimitar moon, the symbol of Muslim power rises from the dust of the Sahara Desert.  Polaris, the North Star sinks lower into the northern sky. Fuel running low, we are looking out for that isolated lonely filling station with its attendant amongst the slow ocean swells, but to no avail. We add  40 litres from our cans into the main tank and purr south. On this sail of 802 n miles we see the lights of 2 ships in the 7 days we are out.

16th November; 11.00 the wind returns - 16.45 rain arrives, we have not seen that for a few months, it only last about an hour and disappears. Most evenings at the stern of the boat we stand within the safety provided by the self steering gear and throw buckets of sea water over ourselves, if we think we can spare fresh water we take quick shot from the  water hose to the head and we are done. Bracing it is.

18th November;  At 13.00 the outline of Sao Vincente of the Cape Verde Islands is sighted.  At 18.00 we enter the channel between San Antonio and Vicente and the wind freshens considerable. We are playing ‘Beethoven’s 7th ‘and in the sunset the islands are washed in a  magnificent light , it is a wonderful entrance to the anchorage at Mindelo on Sao Vincente.    After a bit of dragging we finally bed the anchor and wine, dine and sleep.

19th November; Into the new marina by dingy,  for €3.00 per day they will look after our dingy – on our last visit you asked and paid one of the local men on the beach to look after the dingy but the marina has taken this part of the beach from them  - they now stand outside the gate of the marina asking for work or begging.  Checking in with the Maritime police and Immigration we have to sign harbour rules which state that we must never leave the boat unattended especially at night.  This basically means that the maritime police sole criteria is the stamping of documents and will not take any responsibility for security to boats anchored just outside their door.  Also large fines shall be imposed if anchor lights are not displayed, the harbour was full of boats of all descriptions, some which could be described as past their best-by date , none displayed lights!. Despite all this everyone was most polite and friendly.  The prevalence of people asking for work or just begging  was as ten years ago, more wealth was in evidence as in private cars, and one could surmise that there was now a greater division between rich and poor.  The price of goods in the shops was on almost on a par with Ireland but our incomes would be substantially greater, we in Ireland do live in a very cheap food economy!

We had intended to top up our water tanks in Cape Verde the water all of which had to be paid for, but on tasting we thought it was very chemical, a strict water rationing regime went into play as we decided to stretch our tank water filled in the Canaries all the way across the Atlantic.

22nd November; After three days on anchor we take a berth in the marina ( €28.00 per night) this frees us up to complete lots of work bits and stocking up. We can do laundry, have showers and take on water and fuel – just a note : we paid for the water and received a swipe card for the tap on the pontoon and merrily proceeded with boat washing, clothes washing and after all work done headed for a much looked forward to shower – the swipe card you get for the water tap opens the shower door in the marina and also is your swipe card for the shower – what we did not know was our ‘bought’ water included the shower so when in the shower soaped up and looking for the ON tap I realised the situation and found we had used up all our credit - so soaped up and no water I headed for the wash hand basin of the toilets and did my best to wash with the brown water therein  - this was the start of paying for all water of varying quality and scarcity - I rethought my decision not to take on a watermaker and think in retrospect I should have installed one.

The cruising yachtsman seeks out on each landfall the necessities of life, water, food, bars and nowadays wifi connections !! and in Mindelo a fellow French sailor directed us to the beautiful old colonial building painted faded flaky bluey grey  belonging to Alliance Francaise – this was an oasis, a courtyard with several old wooden tables of varying sizes with a small library and two  ladies making the best coffee and pear cake in the world and with excellent internet connection to keep abreast of developments at home.  In the evenings we go to the ‘Club Nautico’ with its Cubian ambience and very high quality local music for which the Cape Verde islands and Mindelo in particular are known – also here we gossip with fellow sailors, Mark and Eileen, Andy and Sue, of voyages past and planned.   

On the afternoon of the 24th after talking to many answering machines and finally my son Eoin, we were delighted to discover that daughter Vera has given birth to a baby boy in Galway.  Now! that was something to celebrate.  So that evening we again attend at ‘Club Nautico’ drinking toasts to the as yet unnamed grandson, this was to be our last night in Cape Verde.  While there, Andy an American who had come in alongside us in the marina decided he was going to ‘join the band’ he arrived with a miniature sax, a flute and a bank of harmonicas. From the regular musicians he was getting a hard time, a very obvious ‘cold shoulder’ but he persisted and he sure could play and by the fourth or fifth tune he was in and accepted, it was an amazing display of pure neck , but he did have the skills to back it up.

25th November;   saw us clearing out with customs and a few final bits we hoist sail and set course for Barbados 2022 miles to the west. The boat has a covering of fine dust from the Sahara desert brought down by the strengthening trade winds. This desert is now apparently expanding quicker than ever due to global warming it stretches from the coast of Mauritania three thousand miles to the once fertile but now struggling Nile valley. We hear from home that the country is flooded as rain and storm have been ceaseless, O! That the vagaries’ of weather could be more equitable shared.

28th November; We now listen to Herb transmitting on the SSB from Canada every evening, we glean information on the Atlantic highways, like who’s out and about but mainly for weather information.   We continually attempt to contact other boats and transmit e-mails by our SSB but despite loads of very impressive noises and flashing lights nothing to go out or come in.  The sunset was not very impressive and the fact that the glass had dropped by 5 mille bars during the day had us in tense mood but as darkness arrived all the cloud banks disappeared and the new moon turned the sea to gold. While reading in the cockpit at night a mackerel sized flying fish lands in the cockpit, picking it up is not that easy it is a surprisingly heavy solid fish vibrating at an astonishing rate and having examined its magnificent wing structure as I have been reading ‘Dawkins’ I look it in the eye and say “as we share a common ancestry I return you safely to your watery life where your species shall continue to evolve and improve its flying ability in its ever present battle with its predators.” Splash and it is gone.

29th November; The moon set at 05.30 was awesome. Wind becoming more fickle but we continue to hold over 5knots under full poled out genoa, staysail and double reefed main. Daily runs vary between 131 and 154 nautical miles.

1St December; with the arrival of the new month came 30knots of wind gusting to 45, we struggle to get in the 3rd reef in mainsail, roll away the genoa and run on in a very lumpy sea. Wind drops back to a steady 25knts most of the day. Next day much improved and sail plan is increased bit by bit. During that evening a malodorous air envelops the cockpit for a while like a passing fish factory.  Nothing is seen but we assume it must have been a passing whale.  At 6.30 on the morning of the 2nd we gybe the rig, which means resetting all sail to suit the wind on the other side of the boat.

Just as we complete , a wave breaks on the port side and pours through the open galley window, rushes across the worktop, down on to the navigators seat and dumps straight into  the electrics.  One could not plan it if you tried. We spend an age shaking water out of the laptop, the main navigation computer, which has gone out, disconnect just about everything, drying all the wiring.  The Main computer box is wiped and dried as best as possible and put to bed with a hot water bottle! An hour later it is plugged in and lo and behold all the lights flash on and the skipper mood lightens considerable. It is a day later before we can fully ascertain that all systems are back up and running, Whew! they were.

4th December;  Most of fresh stocks are now gone but the bread has improved big time as Kay is now baking our own, difficult in the boisterous conditions at times, but it turns out trumps every time. Switching on the mast head navigation lights at dusk, the mast head light is gone; from then on it operates intermittently.

6th December; Ship sighted at night - first sighting of anything later that day we sight what we think is a large catamaran going south at a furious speed. For days now the trades have been blowing at 25 to 30 knots a bit more than we would like, but it is not the wind that is the uncomfortable bit but the constant 2 to 3 meter seas. Just before dawn we get a gust of 46knots which lays us over despite the modest amount of sail being carried. We disconnect the self steering and run off at speed before it as it is pouring rain as well we receive the benefit of a fresh water shower.  Carrying out the smallest task around the boat requires constant care, it would so easy to have an injury in these conditions. We hear from the net that a yacht called  ‘Pelican’  has been abandoned a few hundred miles to the NW of Cape Verde, the only reason we can get is multiple rigging failure, but all five people on board were removed safe and well. Another 60’ ‘ARC’ yacht was also apparently abandoned when its rudder failed.  When the squall blows out we hove-to with further reduced canvas as we detect another approaching squall which, as we are well prepared for it, has no wind in it.

9th December;  Barbados sighted,  by 21.00 we have closed with the west coast but too late to check in, we contact the port authority which directs us into the deep water harbour, when we enter there is nobody about, we tie in the south east corner, not a great decision as it transpires. The surging is constant we run lines in all directions to hold ‘Pylades’ off we have a night cap to celebrate our safe 14 day crossing and sleep.  At 05.30 next morn a port officer asks to move as a liner is coming in to tie, so we have to undertake the whole rigmarole again this time tying to the outer breakwater, less surge out here though.  Kay goes to check us in and having completed formalities, we leave and go to anchor in Carlisle Bay. The skippers snorkelling reveals that the anchor is not bedding very well into the hard bottom, so we set a second heavy fisherman anchor.

10th December; Ashore, our priority is to contact daughter Vera and ascertain that all is well with new baby and mother. All, it transpires is thankfully well and the new lad’s name is ‘Ruairí’.  We go walking on beaches and in the evening  go to the bar we had such a great time ten years ago when we landed.  But we miss the company of the last visit, the surly barman barely serves us and most of the few people in the bar are looking at the footie on TV. The day after landing the skipper always requires a junk food fix, we go to a KFC’s, It fully lives up to the name of junk food but sick we do not get. Over the next days we spend our time getting to grips with the bustling town of Bridgetown and attempting to fix bits on board.  One of which is a leaking raw water pump to the engine- the other being the SSB which while being very good at listening has been pretty poor in transmission. We discover that most of the recommended boat yards and fix it’s have gone from Barbados, so we postpone to another destination.

15th December;  At 17.00 we up anchor and set sail for the island of Bequia, the sunset is not at all promising, yellow and grey.  During the night we are slowly reducing sail as the wind slowly increases, squalls run through every so often necessitating a quick sail reduction and an increase after it passes to maintain speed.  At dawn we clearly see the profile of Bequia, its been a much faster passage than planned as we approach the wind is now holding a steady 35knots and gusting, the seas are very disturbed and irregular.  The skipper goes on the tiller for a few hours, as we enter the sound between Bequia and St.Vincent me thinks the wind and sea have moderated and puts the string back on auto and goes below for a rest.  K is below checking entrance to Admiralty Bay... when we gybe and broach.  Water pours ‘again’  through the galley port as we lie over. This is becoming a habit. The preventer has shredded and the port dodger is hanging on by a thread. We get the rig back under control and within a half hour we are within the protection of Admiralty Bay in Bequia.  After a few attempts the anchor finally digs in and we attach the 50lb angel to the chain 18M back from the anchor and the skipper’s dive shows all is well at the bottom.

We check in with customs and immigration – a much simpler operation than in many other places -  we are invited aboard Moonlight (Vancouver 38) for sundowners and swap tales of the crossing they have taken 21 days from La Palma Canaries which is pretty good. As well as John and Ann with whom we spent some great nights on the ‘other side’ , Johns daughter Becky now is also on board having joined them for the crossing, all are good company.  The next morning we call ‘Daffodil’ services and they fill or water tanks direct from their boat $EC 1.50 (.40€) per gallon, expensive but very good and the first water we have taken on since the Canaries.

Over the next few days we concentrate on getting repair works done to Pylades. We remove the engine raw water pump, the leading bimini bar, the tiller which has a growing movement, the port side dodger.  The first two items were brought to ‘Mr.Fixman’ we jest not, that is what he is referred to as.  He very efficiently gets the pump parts in within a day, fixes the pump and welds the bars within two days. He also directs us  to Gene Gardner a very affable American from ‘Eli Blue’ who looks at our SSB which has never been consistent in transmission and within 20mins it works!  Reception is confirmed by a 5/5 reception by a yacht in Mystique and the successful transmission of GRIB file requests and e-mails via the Panama base station. We are delighted, on further talking with Gene he says our installation looked VG but there was one poor connection at the Tuner base , he suggests perhaps cutting it and soldering the connections directly.  The dodger is re sewn and replaced. The tiller connections are rejigged and bolted back under huge pressure, all appears well. We swim on Princess Margaret Beach – a beautiful beach in glorious water.

On a few nights we go to ‘Frangipani’s’ where we dallied with some lounge lizards ten years ago, the rich clientele had not changed much, we had some great conversations and a good few Planters punches were consumed which are gorgeous but pack quite a kick. On our last day we hike across the island to Hope Bay, rough going in the heat and the last mile or so the road had been washed away and it was down through a rough track through dense tropical forest. The beach was spectacular, no development of any kind except for a Robinson Caruso  type hut and a single seat made of driftwood looking out into the pounding surf.

21st December; A 06.30 start to clear out, provision, pack away dingy and anchor and at 10.15 we swing past Moonlight bid our final farewells and head SW our planned destination is Bonaire off the Venezuelan coast. Outside the wind is light and fickle so the engine stays running, It is a very warm day at sea 31deg. Kay starts to tighten up the stores for the voyage and is in the process of moving some beer cans when one punctures and it sprays sections of the interior with some ferocity. Fergus moves the 50lb anchor angel back into the keel box when there is a bang and a hiss and another beer can which has rolled in there bursts. The place now smells like a brewery and there is much poor quality language and cleaning up.

23rd December;  By afternoon the wind has built to 20 to 25knots and seas are slowly continuing to build.  Wind starts to veer to South East which means we have to take the still building sea and wind over the port quarter.  The mainsail is stowed and we run on under full staysail and very heavily reefed headsail. Seas are now breaking all around us but not overhanging, conditions to put it mildly are not comfortable.

24th December; 07.00 we round the south tip of Bonaire and just when we look forward to booting up the swell free west coast, the wind dies.  We pile on the sail and dawdle up the coast looking at the huge piles of salt on the shore and the restored slave huts which look like a miniature bell harbour; we are singing “we saw three ships come sailing on Christmas day in the morning”.

We pick up a mooring as no anchoring is allowed on Bonaire to mitigate reef damage or boats dragging ashore in rapid wind reversals. The water is crystal clear and as this is one of the worlds primer dive sites the skipper goes immediately over, myriads of species of fish darting all over the place but mainly gathered around the mooring blocks. Overhead the supremely elegant but somehow evil looking frigate birds scan the seas below for birds which might have successfully caught a fish, they then dive on the unfortunate, batter and harass it until it throws up the caught fish which the frigate then pinches and resumes its sky patrol.  Pelicans fly past.  Just before we leave the boat, the toilet blocks, a perfect job for Christmas Eve.  After our tedious, but friendly check in we rush to the shops which are closing and stock up with festive fare, the supermarket with a Dutch feel is very impressive. That evening after a temporary toilet repair, it is too late and we are too knackered to go ashore, we wine and relax.

25th December; after breakfast a wander to the town of Kralendijk, perfect day for Christmas shopping, every single shop is closed, the town is completely deserted, one would expect tumbleweed to blow down the street. We promise each other presents when the shops reopen. The main meal was excellent, champagne followed by the best steaks ever as recommended by the local Dutch butcher.  On Stephens’s day we went by dingy to the Island of Klein this was about a mile from our mooring, it has been preserved as completely undeveloped, with difficulty we walked some sections, it was running with lizards of all kinds and pelicans were diving everywhere. We then did a bit of snorkelling on the surrounding reefs, a magnificent display of species including turtles and barracuda.

28th December. We slip our mooring briefly and go to the dock to take on fuel and water, all the water is desalinated on the island and is of good quality, we fill all our tanks which were dry for $10us, the diesel a bit more , but as we were fuelling so was a gigantic motor yacht ’Ocean Quest’ a casual remark to the dock master, “that that must cost a bit to fill”  brought the response yep, two tanker loads, $US 60,000! And that’s the way to get rid of the oil!.   

In the evenings we usually attend for sundowners to one of the many v.good bars – our favourite being ‘Little Havana’ with its mix of classical and jazz music, combined with superb sunsets and betimes good conversation – you know at times like this why you put up with the waves !!. We attended dinner in a large American Catamaran moored behind Pylades. Friends of theirs joined from on board from an identical cat , Elizabeth the owner claimed she descended from an Irish tinker background, and she was indeed a lively and engaging lady. They did not much like their new president as he was “trying to make them all equal” we were most civilised and gentle in our responses.  Skipper resolves to buy ‘Audacity of Hope’ Obama’s   last book and get more to grips with this subject as one might expect to meet a lot of Americans from now on.

31st December; bangers and fireworks started at dawn and never stopped, all the dogs of the town and ourselves were going berserk.  We joined the Americans in the marina bar for sundowners.  Later that evening we sat on the deck watching the day and year climax as tens of thousands of rockets and bangers took to the sky over Kralendijk and they and we welcomed in the New Year.

At this point of the journey our SSB is going v. well and we join in on one of the nets – OPS is delighted with all the gizmos now up and running, lots of emails to and from our other SSB mates – all our weather charts arriving daily.

3rd January 2010. Slip our lines and bid farewell to our neighbours, we set a complex course for Cartagena in Colombia 420 miles away.  Fine sailing past Curacao and then on to Aruba where the sea and wind cut up rough between the Island and the Venezuelan coast, wind is 25 to 30kts despite all the forecasts predicting max wind strength on the passage at 18knots. The seas had a pooping ability and indeed one eventually got us. The temperature at 30deg C at night meant sleeping below with all hatches shut was, to put it mildly hot, how we envy those of which there are many with air conditioning. Anyway, after foolishly leaving the main deck hatch open for air, sometime during night a dream turned to a nightmare of the boat crashing down the side of a wave and water pouring down straight on to the now loudly cursing skipper. All now soaked in sea water again, drat, will we ever learn, this is becoming a habit.

We had been psyched up with tales of this part of the trip being one of the five worst passages in the world, (don’t know where the other four are.)   Horrific tales of a yacht in sustained 60knots for three days, dismastings and an as yet unsubstantiated story that a yacht had gone down recently here  in a gale. The fact that we had no pilot for this part of the coast, and charts marked with cautions of ‘not fully surveyed’ - this combined with the previous reputation of the Colombian coast, which basically went “if you approach the coast you will be shot and your boat taken” a touch off-putting to the cruising yachtsman . Despite hearing that all is supposed to have improved, we still approach with a touch of foreboding.  The dawn comes revealing the Colombian coast, deserted for the first sixty miles, then some traces of industrial plant, but no, boats or humans spotted all day, a bit scary.

5th January ; Out of the haze over boisterous seas appears the outline of Cartagena, our way point is to a gap in a submerged wall with 11ft clearance over the cill, but thankfully it is marked with the “red right returning” American buoy system. We fly through the gap at hull speed and we are in the huge protected bay , one can see why the Spanish established their main base here in 1500 before they plundered the wealth of the continent. After a few attempts to set the anchor it finally goes in and we notice an anchored boat waving a Tricolour, “ is that Pylades, is that Fergus Quinlan” a voice carries across, it is David Cody son of Nicky Cody from Lough Derg.  We chatted and organised to meet anon.

The old city of Cartagena lived up to and exceeded our expectations. A throbbing, colourful, multicultural metropolis in the setting of an old Spanish walled city.  We are greeted inside the gates by an extremely energetic dancing group who celebrate life and is replication in amazing dresses which they then discard to an amazing undress to the pounding rhythms of Colombia, it would take your breath away. Every street and plaza provide a setting for a constantly eye catching exhibition of colour and the sheer beauty of the people, a mixture of white, black, metizo, mulato, zambo and indigenous people. To set out for the night we drew out $200,000 Columbian pesos, a beer was $5000, a glass of wine $7000 but just divide everything by 2836 to get Euros and everything got back into focus!

The police presence is heavy and backed up by groups of machine gun carrying soldiery. A visit to a fairly run down public toilet by the skipper produces two surprises, a large bunch of flowers at the wash hand basins, and the company of a soldier with a machine gun! There now appears to be no trouble at all in Cartagena. 

Despite the security on the ground some dinghies are being stolen at night from the boats.  Ours is now hoisted high out of the water and locked at night. Every morning the cruisers in Cartagena run a net on channel 68 VHF it can be most entertaining, it is generally run by Americans and sounds very like ”Good Morning Vietnam”  all sorts of information can be gleaned there from the unmarked reef on the chart to the missing black sock!

We had intended to lift out here and antifoul the hull, but the main travel lift is out of commission. We will service the engines, batteries and upgrade some of the lines. In another week we should hopefully be on our ways to the San Blas Islands.

Meanwhile we wish everyone a very happy and prosperous 2010 and to express our thanks for all the messages of good will on the message board.


Mileage to date  6727

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Posted: 8:47:11 PM - 1/10/2010

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